“Via delle Guide” to Crozzon di Brenta
One of the most beautiful climbing routes in the Brenta Dolomites. Opened in August 1935 by Bruno Detassis and Enrico Giordani, who climbed the immense north-east face of Crozzon di Brenta with impeccable logic, following the visible black flow that runs up it at the top. Most of the pitches are on excellent rock: well gripped vertical dolomite. The technical difficulties are limited, but the approach, length and return make it a route reserved for well-trained and experienced climbers. From the summit, where there is a small bivouac, we can enjoy a unique panorama over the Brenta group and Presanella.
- Service and guidance of a certified mountain guide for the whole duration of the experience
- Mountaineering equipment (harness, helmet, climbing-shoes)
From Madonna di Campiglio we go up to spend the night at Brentei refuge. The next morning we wake up very early to reach the start of the route at first light. We approach the start of the route by crossing the Brenta valley and we climb a small section of the Neri rill. The first part of the wall follows a chimney dihedron, with about 7 lengths of rope and without great difficulty we reach a comfortable ledge, from the stop start the 5 most challenging pitches of the climb which first pass a small roof and then some beautiful black slabs with difficulties up to V+. Then the difficulties decrease significantly but there is still a nice section of ascent and with another 5 pitches, a section on easy screes and rocks and we reach the summit of Crozzon di Brenta.
The small bivouac is the perfect place to take a short break before starting the traverse to the Tosa peak or the abseiling on the west face.