Climbing routes - Guide Alpine Campiglio

Corna Rossa – Via Detassis Vidi

guidecampiglio — Tue, 13 Jul 2021 15:58:09 +0000

A classic alpine route opened by Bruno Detassis and Natale Vidi in August 1946. The route is very popular thanks to the quick approach and the sunny exposure for several hours a day. This legendary route runs along the south-eastern edge of the first tower of Corna Rossa.

The itinerary is characterized by constant exposure and steepness; highly recommended.

Difficulty: V- Length: 300 metres

L'articolo Corna Rossa – Via Detassis Vidi proviene da Guide Alpine Campiglio.

Via Preuss to Campanile Basso

guidecampiglio — Thu, 21 Oct 2021 14:14:20 +0000

A beautiful and famous route that leads from the main road to the summit of Campanile Basso passing by its east face. To be combined with the normal route or with the routes on the ridge for the more expert climbers.
Opened in 1911 by the strong mountaineer Paul Preuss, it was climbed and descended by him without the use of ropes, in his typical style.
It is rich in history, but at the same time modern, as the ascent is along slabs with difficulties up to V.

L'articolo Via Preuss to Campanile Basso proviene da Guide Alpine Campiglio.

Corna Rossa – Via Nella Detassis

guidecampiglio — Thu, 15 Jul 2021 09:11:50 +0000

A classic climbing route in an atmospheric environment, ideal for those with a minimum of climbing experience who want to approach the Dolomite routes.

This historic itinerary was opened by Bruno Detassis with his wife Nella and named after her in the 1940s.

Route with constant exposure and solid rock.

Difficulty: VI+. Length: 300 metres.

L'articolo Corna Rossa – Via Nella Detassis proviene da Guide Alpine Campiglio.

Via Fehrmann Campanile Basso

guidecampiglio — Fri, 22 Oct 2021 06:25:14 +0000

This is a great itinerary opened back in 1908 and follows almost entirely the imposing dihedron formed between the large wall of the Campanile Basso and the west face of the same Campanile. Difficulty IV+ constant on rock which is always excellent. A very aesthetic and technical climb.

L'articolo Via Fehrmann Campanile Basso proviene da Guide Alpine Campiglio.

Campanile Basso – Via Normale

guidecampiglio — Thu, 24 Jun 2021 08:40:25 +0000

“Superb monolith of incomparable audacity, which rises mighty between Brenta Alta and Campanile Alto” this is how Campanile Basso was described in the guidebook G.Buscaini – E. Castiglioni. This is the symbolic mountain of the Brenta Dolomites, climbed for the first time in 1899 by Austrian alpinists Otto Ampferer and Karl Berger.

The normal route presents difficulties of IV+, very exposed and panoramic.

L'articolo Campanile Basso – Via Normale proviene da Guide Alpine Campiglio.

“Via delle Guide” to Crozzon di Brenta

guidecampiglio — Tue, 05 Oct 2021 18:27:50 +0000

One of the most beautiful climbing routes in the Brenta Dolomites. Opened in August 1935 by Bruno Detassis and Enrico Giordani, who climbed the immense north-east face of Crozzon di Brenta with impeccable logic, following the visible black flow that runs up it at the top. Most of the pitches are on excellent rock: well gripped vertical dolomite. The technical difficulties are limited, but the approach, length and return make it a route reserved for well-trained and experienced climbers. From the summit, where there is a small bivouac, we can enjoy a unique panorama over the Brenta group and Presanella.

L'articolo “Via delle Guide” to Crozzon di Brenta proviene da Guide Alpine Campiglio.

Corna Rossa – Via Neverland

guidecampiglio — Mon, 26 Jul 2021 20:27:27 +0000

The route follows the aesthetic southern edge with 6 rope lengths of 25 metres each, facing the Corna Rossa face with moderate difficulty.

Given the recent re-pitching it is suitable for those who want to start on a multi-pitch route in a stunning environment.

L'articolo Corna Rossa – Via Neverland proviene da Guide Alpine Campiglio.

Campaniletto dei Camosci – Via Normale

guidecampiglio — Sat, 02 Oct 2021 19:41:18 +0000

An aesthetic peak between the Grostè peak and the Campanile dei Camosci: a short but satisfying climb on excellent rock with a maximum difficulty of IV°.

L'articolo Campaniletto dei Camosci – Via Normale proviene da Guide Alpine Campiglio.

Via Graffer – Detassis to the Tosa pillar

guidecampiglio — Mon, 18 Oct 2021 12:31:19 +0000

A climb of great historical and mountaineering interest that follows the weak points of the wall and conquers the east pillar of the Tosa peak with a challenging climb on excellent, well worked rock.

L'articolo Via Graffer – Detassis to the Tosa pillar proviene da Guide Alpine Campiglio.

Via Soldanella

guidecampiglio — Sat, 09 Oct 2021 20:11:23 +0000

Recently opened via on the south-west face of the Grostè peak; its continuous difficulties and excellent rock have made it a very popular via in just a few years.

L'articolo Via Soldanella proviene da Guide Alpine Campiglio.

North corner of Crozzon di Brenta

guidecampiglio — Wed, 20 Oct 2021 10:49:54 +0000

A great itinerary on the most severe peak of the Brenta group: with a difference in height of one thousand metres the route can be considered one of the great classic ridge climbs of the Alps. The start of the via is on the Martinazzi path, just to the left of the base of the ridge where there is a huge dihedron. Although the grade is not very high (max IV+), the day will be long, but very satisfying.

L'articolo North corner of Crozzon di Brenta proviene da Guide Alpine Campiglio.

Via Hartman-Krauss, west corner of Campanile Alto

guidecampiglio — Thu, 21 Oct 2021 13:25:13 +0000

Great ridge itinerary on one of the most famous peaks of the Brenta group, with difficulties up to IV+ and an altitude difference of 600 metres. An excellent testing ground for those who want to try the longer and more severe edge of Crozzon di Brenta.

L'articolo Via Hartman-Krauss, west corner of Campanile Alto proviene da Guide Alpine Campiglio.

Ambiez peak – Tosa peak crossing

guidecampiglio — Wed, 16 Jun 2021 09:56:41 +0000

Mountaineering ascent in the heart of the Brenta Dolomites; the classic excursion will allow you to reach two of the most representative peaks of this mountain group.

L'articolo Ambiez peak – Tosa peak crossing proviene da Guide Alpine Campiglio.

Castelletto Inferiore – Gasperi Route

admin_guidecampiglio — Tue, 08 Jun 2021 09:25:51 +0000

Gasperi corner is a classic via on excellent rock in a stunning environment, with a maximum difficulty of III+.

L'articolo Castelletto Inferiore – Gasperi Route proviene da Guide Alpine Campiglio.

Castelletto di Mezzo – Via Sybilla

guidecampiglio — Tue, 13 Jul 2021 19:24:09 +0000

A classic via at Castelletto di Mezzo, very beautiful and repeatable, with an excellent rock in a superlative environment.

The maximum difficulty is IV+ and the length is of 250 m. The first part of the via is the most demanding, while the second part is characterized by a wonderful dihedral that leads to the summit plateau.

L'articolo Castelletto di Mezzo – Via Sybilla proviene da Guide Alpine Campiglio.

Via del Missile

guidecampiglio — Wed, 20 Oct 2021 11:37:12 +0000

One of the best known and most famous vias in the Sarca valley, opened in 1981 by the Stengel-Baldessarini team on the first pillar of Casale mount. It runs along the left side of a yellow spot in the shape of a missile, from which it takes its name.

A via of great satisfaction that should not be missed.

L'articolo Via del Missile proviene da Guide Alpine Campiglio.

Via Cesare Lewis “Manolo dihedral”

guidecampiglio — Wed, 20 Oct 2021 11:09:20 +0000

Beautiful via opened in 1978 by the strong team M. Zanolla (Manolo) – G. Groaz – M. Furlani, which runs through fabulous dihedrals and fissures. The good pegging and the overall non-excessive difficulties certainly make this a must-do classic. Excellent in mid-season and in winter.

L'articolo Via Cesare Lewis “Manolo dihedral” proviene da Guide Alpine Campiglio.